Diseases and insects can limit the production of strawberries in home plantings. Effective disease and insect control depends on a combination of cultural, sanitation, and pesticide application practices. If you follow the proper cultural practices and plant the varieties recommended for your area of the state, you should obtain strong plant growth, and your plants will be less likely to be attacked by insects and diseases. You should have your soil tested and fertilized according to the soil test report.

Plant in well-drained soils to reduce the possibility of several root diseases. Thin plant stands after the harvest season to improve air circulation. You should also rotate strawberries with other crops, such as corn or grasses, to help reduce disease and insect problems. Remove weeds and dead or poorly growing strawberry plants from the planting area because they can harbor diseases and insects.

Purchase plants from reputable sources that sell certified disease-free plants. If you grow your own plants, do not use any that you suspect are diseased.

Below is an example of how you should and shouldn't plant your strawberry plants. It is very important to plant to the middle of the crown.

Only The Finest
Strawberry...Grape...
& Asparagus
Rootstocks Available

1. Planted With The Roots
   J-Rooted
2. Planted Too Deep
3. Planted Too Shallow
4. Planted Correctly

Virus Diseases

Virus diseases can greatly reduce the yield as well as the quality of strawberries. Virus diseases are often present but not
recognized because the symptoms are hard to see. The best way to control virus diseases is to plant only certified virus-free
plants. You should not set new plants near old plantings or wild berries. Aphids or mites, most common in the spring or fall,
can transmit viruses from plant to plant. Top

 

 

Leaf Spots and Fruit Rot

The most common fungal leaf-spot diseases are scorch, powdery mildew, leaf blight, and leaf blotch. Gray mold is the major
fruit-rot disease of strawberries. In rainy weather, it can cause 50 percent or more reduction in yield. Defective plant parts
are often covered with a fuzzy, gray mass of spores of the fungus.. Top

 

 

Anthracnose

The anthracnose fungus causes dark brown, oval sunken areas or spots on stems. It also causes the crown to rot, which may
cause young leaves to wilt. The fungus can be carried on apparently healthy plants. Therefore, you should be sure to use
healthy certified plants for transplanting. If you avoid excess moisture during the summer, you will help decrease the severity
of this disease. Anthracnose cannot be adequately controlled through the use of fungicides. Top

 

 

Nematodes

The best way to control nematodes in most home situations is to rotate plantings from year to year if you have the space. Solarization is the next suggestion, combining both will give you the best chance of controlling nematodes.Top

 

 

Black Root-Rot Complex

Plants with black root-rot complex do not grow properly and soon die. The root system will be dark and rotten, and there
will be a noticeable absence of small feeder roots. Several different fungi and nematodes cause this disease. If you find this
problem in a home planting, find a new location. Do not use any plants from an infected field to start your next strawberry
planting. Top

 

 

Insects and Related Pests

Aphids and Mites

Aphids are small sucking insects that may cause damage any time. Their feeding causes leaves to curl, and the sticky honey
dew that aphids excrete supports sooty mold development. Aphids are capable of spreading virus diseases, and their
populations may build up rapidly.

Spider mites also suck sap from the plant and cause loss of plant vigor. Control aphids and mites through thorough coverage.
Use 1 1/2 teaspoons of 57% malathion EC per gallon of water or use 2 tablespoons of 25% diazinon EC in 3 gallons of
water. A home orchard spray material that contains malathion may be used by following the label directions. If malathion does not control the mites, use Kelthane (dicofol). Top

 

 

Soil Insects

Ants, white grubs, wireworms, root weevils, crown borers, and mole crickets are soil insects that are best controlled before
setting the plants in the bed. These insects feed on the roots and the lower part of the plant. Control by making an application
at least 2 weeks before planting. Use 3 1/2 ounces of diazinon 5% granules per 500 square feet of soil area. Apply the
insecticide evenly to the soil and disk it in 3 to 5 inches deep. Top

 

 

Catfacing Insects

Plant bugs feed on blooms and young fruit and prevent maturity by causing deformed growth and woody tissue. The adults
and nymphs of plant bugs produce the damage by injecting a toxic saliva into the plant when feeding.

Control catfacing insects during fruit production by using a malathion mixture or by using a malathion and Sevin mixture. Mix and apply according to label directions. Top

 

 

Snails and Slugs

These pests feed on fruit on or near the soil. Control snails and slugs with metaldehyde bait. Apply the bait in late afternoon. Do not allow bait to contact fruit. Place it between rows and between plants. Top

 

 

Scouting for Insects

Control of the above-mentioned pests during the fruit production season requires close scouting to determine their presence.
It may be necessary to spray on a 7- to 10-day schedule from the time of new growth until 14 days before harvest.
However, it may be possible to reduce the number of insecticide applications by scouting. If the insects are not present, only
the fungicide spray is needed.Top