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THE HOME GARDENER


STRAWBERRY PLANTING TIPS

Nurseries and garden centers sell strawberry plants as bare-root plants. Plant right away in good garden loam. Strawberries don't like salty soil or water; if your native soil is alkaline, plant them in imported topsoil.

Be sure to plant your strawberry plants with the roots as straight down as possible to the middle of the crown of the plant. If the plants are J rooted or planted too shallow or too deep it can have a detrimental effect and can slow down production dramatically (See Pic).

If you're tight on space, tuck plants into the sides of strawberry pots, where they'll bear fruit for months. For greater production, set out plants at 16-inch intervals in rows 18-inches apart. Apply complete fertilizer after new growth begins, then again after the first harvest. Spread organic mulch around plants to help keep the soil moist between watering.

To get maximum berry production, pinch off the first flush of flowers so plants can direct energy into establishing a strong root system. You'll still get fruit the first year just later. Early disbudding may help eliminate the monkey-faced berries that sometimes show up with the year's earliest crop.

 


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LONG-TERM CARE

Strawberries are notoriously short-lived. Diseases build up in the plants over the years, causing fruit production to drop gradually. That's why commercial growers usually replace everbearing strawberry plants every year or two.

In a home garden, you can keep your strawberry patch going indefinitely by letting the mother plants (the first plants you set out) bear fruit and send out runners for two years. Then pull the older plants out, leaving the daughter plants produced by the runners. If you follow this pattern, you'll never have any plant more than 2 years old in the garden, and you'll always have new, vigorous plants starting up.

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